SUNNY LITTLE ITALY
IN AMSTERDAM
MAUD MOODY INTRODUCED AMSTERDAM TO HER DOLCE VITA
IN THE 1980S: SIMPLE BUT DELICIOUS ITALIAN FOOD SERVED IN
HER ICONIC CAFFÈ TOSCANINI.
SIMPLE & STRONG
It all started in 1985 when Maud, together with her sister and two Italian boys, opened an Italian bistro in a homey setting on Amsterdam's Goudsbloemstraat: Caffè Toscanini. The foursome had little experience, but they got started anyway, taking over the former women’s restaurant "Zus" and launching their adventure from there. In 1990, Toscanini moved to Lindengracht, where Toscanini Deli was also opened, offering a selection of tapenades, sardines, cured meats, and cheeses. Maud remained loyal to the original concept: simple Italian cuisine with fresh, á la minute ingredients.
Over the years, much has changed. Not just the neighborhood, but the culinary landscape has evolved as well. When Toscanini first started, it was difficult to get fresh Italian ingredients, even basics like tomatoes, basil, and arugula. What set Toscanini apart was its informal atmosphere and focus on quality, without the high prices of other Italian restaurants. The menu changes regularly, but the dishes remain true to their origins, always with a unique Toscanini twist.
There are certainly plans for the future, but first, the fortieth anniversary will be celebrated in May, along with recognition from Gault&Millau.
MELTING POT
Like Maud has always done, the chefs at Toscanini draw inspiration from the diverse regional cuisines of Italy, which only became unified in 1861. Before that, Italy consisted of several small states, each with its own local ingredients and specialties. Maud travels all over Italy, from Rome and Puglia to Bologna, and soon she will visit Syracuse in Sicily. At Toscanini, all these influences come together beautifully, with dishes such as corzetti (flat round pasta), linguine with chanterelles, and tagliata di manzo (thinly sliced beef) with arugula and polenta.
Vegetables also play a large role at Toscanini, with seasonal products like marinated beets, broad beans, grilled fennel, and pumpkin. Maud’s favorite summer ingredients? Tomatoes and basil, which embody the smell of summer. For a summer picnic, focaccia with potato and onion or with cherry tomatoes and olives is perfect. At the restaurant, a delicious focaccina is served, which pairs wonderfully with a Berto Spritz or Sbagliato.
From the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region, where Trieste is located, comes the typical summer dish of sweet and sour fish, with a special recipe from Maud (see box). The cuisine of this region has many influences from neighboring countries, including Slovenia, due to centuries of trade and travel.
